Zagora and Erg Chegaga Guide: The Draa Valley, Wild Dunes and Where to Stay

South of Ouarzazate, the Draa Valley runs for some 200 kilometres through palm groves, earthen kasbahs and ksour towards the Sahara. At its heart is Zagora, the gateway town with the famous “Tombouctou 52 jours” sign, and at the end of the road is M’Hamid El Ghizlane, the starting point for Erg Chegaga, Morocco’s wildest dune field. If Merzouga feels too busy, this is the desert for you.

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Zagora and the Draa Valley

The road from Ouarzazate to Zagora crosses the Anti-Atlas at the Tizi n’Tinifift pass, then follows the Draa River through one of the longest palm groves in Morocco. Stop at the old kasbahs and fortified villages along the way, such as Tamnougalt near Agdz. In Zagora itself, climb Jebel Zagora for the view, photograph the famous sign with the camel journey time to Timbuktu, and walk in the palm groves.

About 20 kilometres south, the village of Tamegroute is famous for its green-glazed pottery and its zaouia, a religious centre with a historic library of old manuscripts. Nearby, the small Tinfou dunes give you a first taste of the sand.

M’Hamid and Erg Chegaga

At the end of the paved road, about 95 kilometres south of Zagora, the oasis of M’Hamid El Ghizlane is where the Sahara really begins. From here, Erg Chegaga lies roughly 50 to 60 kilometres to the west, across stony plains, dry riverbeds and oases. There is no road: you reach the dunes by 4×4, in about two hours, or on a multi-day camel trek.

Chegaga’s dunes are wilder and more remote than Erg Chebbi near Merzouga, with fewer camps and far fewer visitors. Most travellers spend one or two nights in a desert camp, watch sunset and sunrise from the highest dunes, and return via the dry lake of Iriqui and the road to Foum Zguid.

Zagora or Merzouga?

Erg Chebbi near Merzouga has the tallest, most easily reached dunes and the widest choice of camps. Erg Chegaga is more remote, quieter and more of an adventure, but takes longer to reach. Zagora’s own dunes are small. Read our full comparison of Erg Chebbi and Erg Chigaga.

Where to stay in Zagora

Riad Soleil du Monde

Paradis Touareg

Riad Dar Sofian

Riad Jasmine Sud

Riad le Petit Jardin

Where to stay in M’Hamid and Erg Chegaga

Dar M’hamid

Chez Le Pacha

Le Chant du Sable

Authentique Berber Camp & Activities

Getting there and around

Zagora is about 360 kilometres from Marrakech, roughly 7 hours by road over the Tizi n’Tichka pass and through Ouarzazate. Zagora has a small airport with occasional domestic flights; Ouarzazate Airport, about 2.5 hours away, has more connections. The easiest way to visit is a 2- or 3-day desert tour from Marrakech; compare tours on GetYourGuide. To drive yourself, compare rental cars on DiscoverCars, but leave the car in M’Hamid and go to Erg Chegaga with a licensed 4×4 driver, as the tracks are unmarked.

Do it like a Moroccan: local tips

• Book Chegaga through a local agency. Guest houses in M’Hamid organise 4×4 transfers, camel treks and camps, often as a package.
• Fill up the tank. Fuel stations are few south of Zagora.
• Bring cash. ATMs are only reliable in Zagora.
• Pack for cold nights. Winter nights in the desert can drop close to freezing.
• Stay connected. There is little or no coverage in Erg Chegaga; download offline maps and get a Morocco eSIM from Airalo for the towns.

When to go

October to April is the best time, with warm days and cool to cold nights. From June to August temperatures often climb above 40°C, which makes trips into the dunes exhausting. Spring can bring sandstorms.

Continue your journey with our Ouarzazate and Aït Benhaddou guide, the Merzouga travel guide and the best desert camps in Merzouga, or plan your road trip with the free Moroccanly trip planner.

Cover photo: Marvin Meyer on Unsplash