At the edge of Merzouga, the land simply stops and the sand begins. The dunes of Erg Chebbi rise in waves of apricot and gold, some well over 100 metres high, changing colour by the hour. Ride out by camel in the late afternoon, climb a ridge for sunset, eat around a fire under more stars than you have ever seen, and wake before dawn to watch the light return. This is the Morocco people dream about.

Getting to the dunes

Merzouga is far from the big cities, and the journey is part of the adventure. From Marrakech the drive takes around nine to ten hours across the High Atlas via the Tizi n’Tichka pass, so most people break it up with stops at Aït Benhaddou, the Dadès Valley and the Todra Gorge on a three-day tour. From Fes the road crosses the Middle Atlas cedar forests and the Ziz Valley in about seven to eight hours. Overnight buses also run from both cities, and the nearest airport is Errachidia.

Choosing your desert camp

Camps sit among the dunes, a camel ride or short 4×4 drive from the village. Standard camps offer simple Berber tents, shared bathrooms and a communal dinner by the fire. Comfort or luxury camps add private tents with real beds, en-suite bathrooms and sometimes heating. Whichever you choose, check what is included: transfers, dinner and breakfast, the camel ride and whether you will have electricity to charge devices.

What to do in the Sahara

1. Camel trek at golden hour. The classic way in. Rides usually last about an hour to an hour and a half, timed so you reach camp as the dunes glow.
2. Sunrise from the top of a dune. Set an alarm. The climb is steep in soft sand, but watching the light spill across the erg is unforgettable.
3. Stargazing. With almost no light pollution, the Milky Way stretches overhead on clear nights. Visit around the new moon for the darkest skies.
4. Gnawa music in Khamlia. This small village is home to musicians descended from West African communities. Their hypnotic rhythms are a highlight.
5. Rissani market. The historic trading town nearby hosts a lively souk several days a week, with spices, dates and a famous donkey parking lot.
6. Sandboarding, 4×4 and quad tours. For a faster pace, circle the erg to see nomad camps, fossil sites and the seasonal lake of Dayet Srji, where flamingos sometimes gather after the rains.

Eat like a local

Ask for madfouna, often called Berber pizza: flatbread stuffed with spiced meat, onions and herbs, baked in a clay oven. You will also find fragrant tagines slow-cooked in camp, couscous on Fridays and the region’s excellent dates. Mint tea is served everywhere, often with a story.

Do it like a Moroccan: local tips

• Wrap a scarf. A cotton chèche protects you from sun and wind-blown sand. Your guide will happily show you how to tie it.
• Pack for two seasons. Days are warm but desert nights can drop close to freezing in winter. Bring a fleece, a hat and warm socks.
• Protect your gear. Sand gets everywhere. Bring a zip bag for your phone and camera and a small torch for the camp.
• Travel light into camp. Leave the big suitcase in the hotel or vehicle and take a small overnight bag.
• Respect the desert. Take your rubbish back, keep noise low at night and ask before photographing nomad families.

When to go

October to April is ideal, with warm days and cool to cold nights. Summer temperatures in the desert often climb above 40°C, so if you go in June to August, travel at dawn and dusk and rest in the shade at midday. Spring can bring windy sand storms, which usually pass quickly.