Marrakech is loud, warm, fragrant and completely unforgettable. Spice sellers call out from tiny stalls, mopeds weave through alleys barely wider than your shoulders, and the call to prayer rolls over pink-washed walls with the snowy Atlas on the horizon. It can feel overwhelming on day one. By day three, most visitors never want to leave.

Choosing your base: Medina or Gueliz

Most travellers sleep inside the Medina, the walled old city. This is where you will find riads: traditional houses built around a shaded courtyard, often with a plunge pool and a rooftop terrace. You are steps from the souks and the main square, but expect walking only, a little noise and a few wrong turns. It is part of the charm.

Gueliz, the newer district built in the French era, is the calmer alternative. Wide avenues, cafés with terraces, galleries and easy taxis make it a comfortable base, especially for a longer stay. A good rhythm for a first trip: three or four nights in a Medina riad, then a quieter night or two in Gueliz if you want a break.

Seven experiences not to miss

1. Jemaa el-Fnaa, twice. In daylight the square is fresh orange juice, henna artists and musicians. After sunset it turns into a vast open-air kitchen of smoking grills. Go once for each mood.
2. Get lost in the souks. The lanes north of the square are loosely grouped by craft: leather, brass lanterns, textiles, spices. Haggling is part of the conversation. Start at around a third of what is first asked and meet somewhere in between, with a smile.
3. Jardin Majorelle. The cobalt-blue garden that inspired this website. It is small and very popular, so buy a timed ticket online a few days ahead and go early.
4. Bahia Palace. Painted cedar ceilings, zellige tilework and quiet courtyards. A perfect midday stop when the sun is at its strongest.
5. The Koutoubia gardens. The mosque itself is reserved for Muslims, but the rose gardens around it and the view of its 12th-century minaret at golden hour are open to everyone.
6. A hammam ritual. Steam, black soap, a vigorous scrub with a kessa glove. Try a local neighbourhood hammam for the authentic version or a riad spa for something gentler.
7. Escape to the Atlas. In about an hour you can be walking between Amazigh villages in the High Atlas. For the dunes, plan a multi-day trip to Merzouga.

Eat like a local

Start with a tagine, the slow-cooked stew named after its conical clay pot: lamb with prunes, chicken with preserved lemon and olives, or seasonal vegetables. On Fridays, families gather around couscous heaped with vegetables and broth. Try pastilla, a flaky pie that balances savoury filling with cinnamon and sugar, and finish every meal with sweet mint tea, poured from a height to create foam. At the night stalls on Jemaa el-Fnaa, pick a busy stand where the food is cooked in front of you.

Do it like a Moroccan: local tips

• Carry cash. Souk stalls deal in dirhams (MAD), so keep some notes on you. Riads, sit-down restaurants and shopping malls will usually take a card.
• Dress with respect. Marrakech is relaxed, but covered shoulders and knees are appreciated in the Medina and near religious sites.
• Say no kindly. Unofficial guides and persistent sellers are the main hassle. A calm “la, shukran” (no, thank you) and keep walking is usually enough.
• Learn three words. Salam (hello), shukran (thank you) and bslama (goodbye) open doors. French is widely spoken, and you will get by in English wherever visitors gather.
• Beat the crowds. The souks and gardens are calmest in the early morning. Save the square for the evening buzz.

When to go

Spring is the sweet spot: warm days, cool evenings and snow still capping the Atlas. Autumn is a close second with thinner crowds. Summer is very hot, often around 40°C in the city, so plan early starts, long lunches and an afternoon by the pool. Winter days are mild and sunny, but nights get cold and many riads are lightly heated, so pack a warm layer.

Getting there and around

From Menara Airport, take a metered petit taxi, book a private transfer, or ask your riad to arrange a pickup (cars cannot reach most Medina lanes, so someone will often walk you the last few minutes). Inside the city, the small beige petit taxis carry up to three people and are the easiest way between the Medina and Gueliz. Ask for the meter or agree on the fare before you set off.