Essaouira is what happens when the Atlantic meets a fortified medina. Gulls wheel over blue fishing boats, the trade wind tugs at the sails of kitesurfers, and whitewashed lanes open onto sea walls lined with old cannons. After the intensity of Marrakech, this breezy port town feels like a long exhale.

A port with a past

Known for centuries as Mogador, the town was redesigned in the 18th century by Sultan Mohammed ben Abdallah, who invited a European engineer to plan its ramparts and straight streets. It became a busy trading port where Muslim, Jewish and European merchants lived side by side. That mix still shows in its architecture, and the medina is listed by UNESCO as a remarkable example of a fortified seaport town.

What to see and do

1. Walk the Skala de la Ville. The sea bastion is lined with bronze cannons and offers wide views of the waves crashing on the rocks. Come at sunset.
2. Watch the fishing port. In the late morning, boats unload sardines, sea bream and crabs, and the auction is in full swing. The Skala du Port tower nearby gives a great view over the harbour.
3. Lose a morning in the medina. Smaller and calmer than Marrakech’s, it is easy to explore. Look for spice stores, silver jewellery and galleries showing local painters.
4. Visit the thuya woodworkers. Under the ramparts, artisans carve and inlay fragrant thuya wood, a craft specific to the region.
5. Hit the beach and the water. The long sandy bay south of town is ideal for walks, horse and camel rides along the shore, and some of Morocco’s best windsurfing and kitesurfing.
6. Day trip to Sidi Kaouki. A laid-back surf village about 25 km south, with wilder beaches and a small surf scene.

Argan country

Essaouira sits in the heart of the argan forest, a tree that grows almost nowhere else on earth. Along the roads you will see women’s cooperatives producing argan oil for cooking and cosmetics. Visiting one is a lovely way to learn about the process, and buying directly supports local families. Look for cooperatives that explain their certification and pricing.

Eat like a local

Head to the grill stalls by the port, pick your fish from the morning catch, agree a price, and have it grilled on the spot with salad and bread. Freshly grilled sardines are the local favourite. Try a fish tagine with tomatoes and preserved lemon, and drizzle amlou, a spread of argan oil, almonds and honey, on warm bread at breakfast.

Do it like a Moroccan: local tips

• Respect the wind. The trade wind blows strongly, especially in summer. Bring a windbreaker and sunglasses, and choose sheltered terraces for lunch.
• Agree the price first. At the port grills, confirm the cost of your fish and the cooking before you sit down.
• Shop slowly. Sellers here are famously relaxed. Browsing without buying is normal.
• Catch the music. Essaouira is the home of the Gnaoua World Music Festival, usually held in June, when the whole town turns into a stage.
• Stay inside the walls. A riad in the medina lets you walk everywhere, including to the beach.

When to go

Thanks to the ocean, Essaouira stays mild all year, rarely very hot even in summer, which makes it a favourite escape from inland heat. Summer is the windiest season, great for kitesurfers but cooler on the beach. Spring and autumn bring calmer days and soft light.

Getting there and around

Supratours and CTM buses connect Essaouira with Marrakech in about three hours, and with Agadir along the coast. Essaouira-Mogador Airport has a limited number of flights. Inside the medina everything is walkable, and blue petit taxis cover longer trips.