If Marrakech is Morocco’s stage, Fes is its living memory. Behind the gates of Fes el-Bali, one of the largest car-free urban areas in the world, craftsmen still hammer copper, dye leather and carve cedar much as their ancestors did. Donkeys carry the deliveries. Scholars have studied here for more than a thousand years. Come curious and unhurried, and the city will reward you.

Understanding the city

Fes has three faces. Fes el-Bali is the ancient medina, founded in the 9th century and listed by UNESCO, a labyrinth of thousands of lanes and the reason you are here. Fes el-Jdid, “new Fes”, was built by the Marinid dynasty in the 13th century and holds the Royal Palace and the old Jewish quarter, the Mellah. Beyond them lies the Ville Nouvelle, a modern district with wide boulevards, cafés and the train station.

For atmosphere, stay in a riad or dar inside Fes el-Bali, ideally near one of the main gates such as Bab Bou Jeloud so you can find your way back. Prefer comfort and parking? The Ville Nouvelle is a ten-minute taxi ride away.

What to see and do

1. Walk through Bab Bou Jeloud. The famous “Blue Gate” is blue zellige on one side and green on the other, the colour of Fes. It opens onto Talaa Kebira, the medina’s main artery.
2. Bou Inania Medersa. A 14th-century theological school with breathtaking carved plaster, cedar and tilework, and one of the few religious buildings in Fes open to non-Muslim visitors.
3. Al-Attarine Medersa. Smaller and just as exquisite, near the heart of the medina by the spice market.
4. Al-Qarawiyyin. Founded in 859 by Fatima al-Fihri, it is often described as the oldest continuously operating university in the world. Non-Muslims cannot enter, but you can glimpse the courtyard through its doors.
5. The Chouara Tannery. Watch leather being dyed in stone vats from the terraces of the surrounding leather shops. You will be offered a sprig of mint for the smell. A small tip or a browse in the shop is the polite exchange.
6. Nejjarine Museum. A restored caravanserai devoted to woodworking, with a lovely rooftop café.
7. Sunset at the Marinid Tombs. From the hill north of the medina, watch the whole city turn gold as the calls to prayer echo across the valley.

A guide is worth it here

Fes el-Bali is genuinely hard to navigate, and map apps lose their way in the narrowest lanes. For your first morning, hire a licensed guide through your riad or the tourist office. You will see more, waste less time, and avoid the unofficial “guides” who wait near the gates. After that, explore on your own: getting a little lost is part of the experience, and any shopkeeper can point you back to a main gate.

Eat like a local

Fes is the birthplace of many classics. The city’s pastilla, layered with spiced meat, almonds, cinnamon and sugar, is legendary. For breakfast, warm up with a bowl of bissara, a fava bean soup drizzled with olive oil and cumin, sold from tiny stalls for very little. Look for makouda (potato fritters), grilled kefta sandwiches and fresh honey pastries near the medina’s food lanes. For a sit-down dinner, many riads cook memorable home-style meals on request.

Do it like a Moroccan: local tips

• Make way for donkeys. When you hear “balak!” step aside. It means “watch out”, and something heavy is coming through.
• Keep your riad’s card. Snap a photo of the nearest gate too. Locals are happy to point you back.
• Fridays are slower. Many shops close around midday prayer, which makes it a lovely, quiet time for photos.
• Dress modestly. Fes is more conservative than Marrakech. Covered shoulders and knees are the norm.
• Buy from the maker. Copper, leather, ceramics and embroidery are often sold right in the workshop where they are made.

When to go

Spring and autumn bring pleasant days for walking. Summers are hot and dry, often well above 35°C, and winters can be chilly and rainy, so pack layers between December and February.

Getting there and around

Fes–Saïss Airport is about 15 km from the city with flights from Europe. Comfortable ONCF trains link Fes with Meknes, Rabat, Casablanca and Tangier. Inside the medina you walk. Elsewhere, red petit taxis are cheap and plentiful. Meknes, the Roman ruins of Volubilis and the hilltop town of Moulay Idriss make an excellent day trip.